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#1 |
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Junior Member
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Pedal Graphics: What works for you?
Hey guys. I've been trying to put together a guitar pedal and strangely enough the hardest part of the entire project has been getting graphics onto the effin box. I ordered a black box from pedalpartsplus, made the graphics in photoshop, but have been able to find no conceivable way of transferring the graphics onto the painted box. I tried iron-on heat transfer lazer paper, "decal paper", and was thinking id just print it out on normal paper and cut it out and then polyurithane over it--but i think the polyurithane may cause the colors to bleed on normal paper. What methods have worked for you? How do YOU get your sexy graphics (not just words) onto finished AND/OR unfinished boxes? Do you only use unfinished because then (i think) the iron-on paper works? Etc... discuss!
Thanks for your help!! I've got the entire circuit layed out, tested, all the components ordered, the box drilled, but i can't get the damn graphics to stay on the box! ![]() If you have no idea but have some sick ass pedal pictures with sexy graphics, feel free to post them here too for inspiration :-) |
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#2 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 25
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i just hand paint a design on mine but mine are all one offs. I'd like to find a way of doing what you want to do.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Etienne (montreal, canada)
Posts: 2,072
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I use either opaque or transparent decal paper, stick it onto a THOROUGHLY CLEANED enclosure, then clearcoat the fck out of the whole thing a few times.
another way I did was print it out on ordinary paper, cut to size, apply sticxk glue and do the same, no decal paper needed. was a little messier but as long as you don't try to pick at it, it doesn't coem off. works pretty well the key is to clean the surface before yo ustick, and then a few coat of clear on top of everything
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#4 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Western New York
Posts: 118
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I've used both clear water slide decals on finished pedals with light color powdercoating and I use decal paper for darker pedals. The trick is to spray the the paper with clear Acrylic shortly after printing to "seal in" the ink. Apply it to pedal after 24 hours and then multiple coats of clear afterwards to protect it. Here are some examples:
Clear water slide: ![]() ![]() ![]() Decal paper: ![]() ![]() ![]()
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FS/FT: Nothing at the moment. "I don't need a hand....there's always arms attached" -ev |
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#5 |
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Junior Member
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Where do you get the decal paper, and how do the colors show up so vibrantly on dark colored boxes? Do you leave a white background below the colors and just cut out around the decal image? Or is the decal paper just really really good? Also, is the decal paper for laser jet or inkjet, and is there a place i can get some for laserjet? I don't get how your colors come out so well...
I have a black, finished pedal i got from pedalpartsplus and a graphic i made in photoshop, what exactly do i do once i get the decal paper (and where do i get it from?)? |
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#6 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Western New York
Posts: 118
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The best decal paper (and this recommendation comes from Dano over at Beavis Audio Research) is the Office Depot brand "do-it-yourself stickers" paper. You want the photo gloss. I use inkjet, because..... well, I have an inkjet printer. I don't leave a white background and cut out the letters, the actual background is filled in with ink when I print. I find black pedals work the best, because how many shades of black are there... um, usually one... black. I did cut out areas of the label on my Octafuzz pedal. That's the purple sparkle of the powdercoating that you see on the rays of the rising sun and the dancing flames.
Usually once you print the labels, the color is somewhat dull compared to a nice glossy powdercoated pedal, but after a few coats of clear when the label is on the pedal, the colors show through nice and shiny and matches the pedal quite nicely. I am engineer by day, so I use multi-faceted CAD programs combined with some Photoshop to make my labels. The best thing to do is make it a full-faced label and print some practice ones on cheap paper so that you can get the label and hole locations lined up right. Once you have that set, print it on the decal paper. I usually print a couple of copies, but it never fails, something always happens to one or 2 of them such as dust or small areas of ink that don't fill in.... or me f'ing it up when I cut it out. Spray the entire sheet with a nice coat of clear acrylic and let dry overnight. Cut it out and stick it onto the pedal, smoothing out any bubbles. Then keep coating with clear until you achieve the desired results/thickness.
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FS/FT: Nothing at the moment. "I don't need a hand....there's always arms attached" -ev |
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#7 |
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Junior Member
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wow thanks, seems like you got your technique down to a science. I will definitely try all these things out. I really appreciate your help.
Do you lay down your graphics, do all your clear coats, and then drill the holes where they go on the image? Or do you somehow line it up, cut out the holes, then put on your graphics? PS: Your pedals are really nice, I really like the blue powdercoated with the sunburst and dancing flames. Last edited by thedash : 01-14-2008 at 11:02 PM. |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Bedford, Tx
Posts: 403
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I use waterslide decals minimally mostly due to bubbles and cracking (my technique probably lacks) so I usually only use what I HAVE to... this one uses two pieces of waterslide cut pretty much to size, then polyclear brushed on, probably 4 coats. baked in a toaster oven, in a well ventilated garage for 20 minutes each coat
![]() I've gotten to where I etch almost everything now ![]() ![]() ![]()
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I remove the goop with ma Shoop-da-whoop. |
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#9 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 25
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i dunno exactly what it is that makes me prefer the look of the waterslides but they look a bit more neater. and I'd like the etching look on the odd pedal too. might have to learn them all.
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#10 |
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Junior Member
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Wow those are really impressive, too! I think I like the waterslide decal look more because I can use it the waterslides already painted boxes, which gives the whole look more vibrancy and color. The etched look is really cool too though and I'd definitely like to learn to do that.
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: unpronouncable
Posts: 914
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I've heard that gloss sticker paper works well
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#12 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Western New York
Posts: 118
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Yeah, I've done so many now, it is pretty much a science to me. However, I still do mess up from time to time and it is very time consuming. I'm going to be trying my first acid etched enclosure in the next week.
As for the holes, I always drill the enclosure first as it's more important to have the components fit and the label comes secondary. I put the label on then use an exacto knife to cut the holes out of the label. Then the coats of clear. I have a local guy here who does all my powdercoating for a really good price. He has a huge amount of colors compared to some of the on-line places like PedalPartsPlus. The few bucks difference is worth it because he can custom make me colors and add that sparkle to pretty much any color.
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FS/FT: Nothing at the moment. "I don't need a hand....there's always arms attached" -ev |
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#13 |
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Junior Member
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Is there anywhere special you recommend for more information on this style of etching?
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#14 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Western New York
Posts: 118
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MarkM who use to be a regular over at DIYStompboxes.com posted this great Acid Etch tutorial that I use. Here it is: http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/v/...llery/album24/
Great information and a nice step by step on how to do it with PNP Blue. This is the way I'm going to try it on a few of my completed builds.
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FS/FT: Nothing at the moment. "I don't need a hand....there's always arms attached" -ev |
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#15 |
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Junior Member
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wow thats a great tutorial and amazingly cool looking...but far too much work. hahah
Is that how you "etched" your boxes above or did u use the iron-on heat transfers on to a bare box? Have you tried the iron-ons, do they work at all? |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Melbourne AUS
Posts: 1,456
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those look amazing bluesmang
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#17 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Western New York
Posts: 118
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Thanks GuitarMasterNot! There is a lot of hours spent on these, but it is truly a labor of love. There is nothing like building your own. The only commercial pedal on my board now is a Boss TU-2 tuner.
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FS/FT: Nothing at the moment. "I don't need a hand....there's always arms attached" -ev |
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#18 |
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Junior Member
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Do you make your own schematics or do you find ones online? I'm just curious because as i'm an EE major I have tried to make a few of my own, but I havn't really gotten the sound I was looking for yet as far as "tone" and "sustain" go, and I havn't found great ones online yet either, especially for sustain.
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: The Garden of England's veg patch
Posts: 4,964
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I've been working in silkscreen for 20+ years, so there's not much I don't know about putting graphics on things, from vehicles to fascia panels. I was going to give you the benefit of my experience but Bluesmang, you've covered it. Can't add a thing.
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Melbourne AUS
Posts: 1,456
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