What is a good way to defret a guitar?

[chunkathalon]

Hm?

I don't wanna mess it up?!
:wave:

[Angry Grimace]

Originally posted by chunkathalon
Hm?

I don't wanna mess it up?!
:wave: It depends on a lot of things - how the frets are seated, the fretboard material, etc. etc.

What kind of neck are we talking here?

[chunkathalon]

Originally posted by Angry Grimace
It depends on a lot of things - how the frets are seated, the fretboard material, etc. etc.

What kind of neck are we talking here?
I dunno.

How many kinds are there?

It's brown, like dark brown.

[JimAnsell]

Originally posted by chunkathalon

I dunno.

How many kinds are there?

It's brown, like dark brown.

there are alot of different kinds of fretboards.

your sounds like rosewood.

[2manband]

You should try searching for this topic in the bass forum - people are always pulling the frets out of bass guitars. I imagine the theory is very similar for a 6 string.

To make a long story short tho, you tape up the board to avoid splintering, heat up the fret w/ an iron or soldering iron to loosen up the glue, and slowly work the frets out with a specialized tool available from Stewart MacDonald. You can use a chisel, nippers, etc. but the right tool for the job can save you damage to your fretboard.

[ajcoholic]

here is my way. Nothing fancy needed...

IMO taping the board isnt necessary and tape will not stop any chips from lifting with the pulled fret. If anything it blocks your view in case a chip is starting, you can take a knife and ease it off the fret before it breaks off.

I took a cheap pair of sidecutters, about $3 at the local hardware store, and ground the face flat (so now they can sit right against the fretboard).

Use a decent sized soldering iron (like one they use for stained glass work) to heat the fret up. If the fret is gued in, the heat will release the glue. EVen if its not, the heat will soften the oils in the wood and the fret is much easier to get out without chipping much, if at all.

AFter the frets are pulled I use a small, thin saw blade to clean out the fret slot. You dont want anything in the slot (like old glue, chips of wood, etc) to prevent the new fret from going in clean.

Last, take a small 3 side file and bevel the fret slot edges slightly, making the fret easier to install and less likely next time to chip.

And if worst case you get some chips, I mix a little filler from epoxy & wood dust, trying to match the colour of the board. Its almost invisible if done well.

AJC

[mumford]

Originally posted by ajcoholic
here is my way. Nothing fancy needed...

IMO taping the board isnt necessary and tape will not stop any chips from lifting with the pulled fret. If anything it blocks your view in case a chip is starting, you can take a knife and ease it off the fret before it breaks off.

AJC

Taping will, however, keep a chip in place so you don't lose or contaminate it, and makes it easier to reseat. Just my $0.02.

[TimmyP]

If you are turning it into a fretless, you need to fill the slots with veneer or other inserts, otherwise when strung the neck will bow, and the truss rod may not have sufficient strength to straighten it.

[guitarcapo]

My two cents:

Beveling the slot edges might lead to the frets being different heights and a lot of weird leveling and crown issues. I'd forgo that.

Very thin cyanoacrylate is great stuff for replacing chips. It's also good to wick a little into the slot, then wait a while for it to dry. Then make a few passes with a fret saw to clean out the slot. You get a clean sturdy slot that way that will hold the fret well.

[edster]

Run a sharp exacto knife along the frets to make sure any finish, glue overfow from the manufacturer or any other buildup that connects the fret to the board is cut. This will help avoid chips.
For stubborn frets use a steam iron in place of a soldering iron. Works great.

[danbomb]

I found that they come up even easier if you tin the frets with solder when you heat them up.

[ajcoholic]

Originally posted by guitarcapo
My two cents:

Beveling the slot edges might lead to the frets being different heights and a lot of weird leveling and crown issues. I'd forgo that.

Very thin cyanoacrylate is great stuff for replacing chips. It's also good to wick a little into the slot, then wait a while for it to dry. Then make a few passes with a fret saw to clean out the slot. You get a clean sturdy slot that way that will hold the fret well.


I meant a SLIGHT bevel... like breaking the edge slightly on the fret slot. Since the fretwire actually has a slightly filleted transition from the tang to the underside of the crown (due to the extrusion die not having a true 90 degree sharp corner) the slight bevel lets the fret sit flat on the board as well as easing future refrets.

AJC